I remember years ago when working at the Sydney Theatre Company, a well known Australian costume designer taking a whif of some magnificently beaded fabric. He immediatly tossed it aside like it was a dirty dishcloth, took a deep puff on his cigarette and declared distainfully "INDIAN FABRIC....it always stinks of curry!"
Arghhh, those were the days! .... when smoking was still permitted in Australian costume departments and stressed Indian workers , toiling for a few rupees a day, literally ate 'on the job'! We all laughed, and knew exactly what he was talking about. Indian textiles did have a common smell back then!




How much more profesional things are now, at least from my experience working with the artisans of Kutch.

The rise of India's fashion industry, one that competes internationally on the world stage, calls for world class textiles. The new generation of young artisans making fabrics for designers and the international market run their businesses really profesionally. Quality dyes are used, and workers get lunch and 'chai' breaks away from their work enviroment. They are paid properly and valued for their age old skills. And finally, quality control is strictly monitered, so the end product meets the high expectations of a modern consumer.

Madame Hall works with fabrics made by these methods. They cost a little more, but the production methods ensures a garment that will perform well, and you won't smell like yesterdays dinner!

Read about Jabbar Khatri's wonderful delicate Bandhani -
http://www.thehindu.com/features/metroplus/fashion/the-dots-come-alive/article5756717.ece

 

Where does your inspiration come from when designing clothes?

I am inspired by the costumes of the Ballet Ruses, a Paris based dance troupe that toured Australia in 1920's & 30's. In particular I love the costume designs of Leon Bakst and Matisse. There is a wonderful collection of them in NGA in Canberra. I love Russian folk art too, and these costumes designed for productions with an 'Arabian' theme, like Scheherazade combine all my favourite elements.  http://pinkpagodastudio.blogspot.in/2011/01/costumes-from-ballets-russes.html My basic tunic design is a style that is seen all through Europe and India in vintage or period clothing. It's a style that developed because it makes the most economical use of narrow, hand loomed cloth, such as people would have made on a small loom in their own homes. There are many variations on this style, but the overall shape is always the same. I  hate waste, and love 'working with what I have'. I frequently find the most interesting designs are born out of constraint! Utilising whats available takes designing on a different journey to that of an unlimited fabric supply, it forces you to be creative, and think outside of 'the box'  

I consider 'Prarie Style' to be the current term best describing my collection even tho the textiles I use are Indian

The following pics are inspired by vintage costumes and traditional 'peasant' style

 What process do you go through when creating pieces for your collection? 

First I look for fabrics or embroideries that excite me!  I rarely have textiles made to order, preferring to use original vintage tribal embroideries and traditional Ajrakh block printed fabric. These are usually available in limited quantities, so the size of the piece available plays a big part in how I decide to use a particular handicraft. 

Some embroideries have an obvious use, like a blouse front for example.....but I like to think of ways it could be used differently! I love the unexpected and a little humour in my designs, so I may decide to use it (a blouse front) upside down, or half at the back and half on the front and combine it with non Indian textiles like lace or fake fur to create something different from your average Kurta. 

I recently made a dress from an unusually shaped toran (a wall hanging for over a door way) I kept the original shape, and with a few darts to perfect the fit, and re-alighn the embroidery's design, it was barely recognisable as a toran any longer! I added a flared skirt in a slightly mis-matched print, and the resulting dress while having Indian elements, did not look particularly Indian as the overall shape of the dress and the combination of textiles used were not in a traditional Indian style. 

Another thing I like doing is using heavily mirror worked and embroidered womens' tribal 'blouses' to make a cute party dress. These 'blouses' are backless, but with tight sleeves and a high necked fitted bodice thats fastened with ties across the back. I slash the front neck to open up the shoulders, and give a more comfortable fit as well as a flattering lower neckline. To make it a little 'sexy' I like to retain the original backless look, but add a full floral skirt....Once again, a silhouette thats not Indian, but with unmistakeable Indian embroidery. 

Bias cutting and draping are both western pattern making techniques I frequently like using too.

So, to answer your question, first chose the textile, then think 'what can I do with this that will be fashionable, but unusual and different'.......the thinking about can sometime take months! I have many projects in my mind at any one time.