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How to Wear a Rabari Jacket

6/19/2014

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PictureThis Rabari Jacket has been altered to fit, and is almost ready to be dyed.
If you've been to Kutch you can't have missed seeing the local Rabari men getting about in their distinctive white embroidered jackets. Their tribal jackets have instant appeal to forigeners due to the high waisted style that's currently often copied and oh so fashionable. 
The recent Bollywood movie, Ram Leela has also popularised the style. The romantic story featured spectacular Rabari dance sequences  that were filmed close to Bhuj, capturing the sureal natural beauty of the huge salt desert, The Great Rann of Kutch.
As Bhuj's local 'foriegner' shopping daily for Kutch's unique Indian handicrafts, I contstantly see young ladies, visitors here trying these jackets on in the vintage clothing shops, only to instantly take them off again! Not only are these jackets frequently very small, but the armhole , shoulder  and narrow sleeves are intolerably uncomfortable! Because they are covered in hand embroidery, the complexity of altering them to fit is rarely considered. And mostly they are stained too....We're talking vintage tribal jackets here, from white cotton, in dusty Kutch, so of course, they are often not very clean! 
I love a challenge! And after working at The Emergency Button in Sydney some years ago, I am good at devising alterations that don't compromise a great design.
I spent months, with Rabari Jackets, (or 'Kediya' as is the correct term) on my mind....thinking about how to solve their 'fit problem'  Some folks put a big gussett under the arm, but it's not the soloution as the shoulder still doesn't fit, and all you get is a 'bumpfy' underarm....it's not a good look!
So now...I have developed a formula....It involves several alterations in fact, but completely fixes all the wearability issues of these stunning hand embroidered jackets, meaning western fashionists's like you and me can now wear them easily!
I love Rabari Kediya because each is so different! Different embroidery depending on the community the man that it was originaly made for came from; some have a simple design of embroidered squares, others are very complex with mirror work and gold embelishments....I sometimes even find them with the 'owners' name embroidered on them too, which I love!
They look great worn layered over jeans, cut off shorts, a dress or with a slim skirt.....after altering, I usually dye them to give a quality, unified finish.
Check out my 'shop' for my improved Rabari Jackets, or request one to suit in your choice of size and colour. You'll get an amazing jacket with a story to tell! A Jacket thats completely unique, a 'one off' from a romantic culture of nomads, the exotic, mysterious wandering Rabari of Kutch.







Picture
A Rabari man I photographed just outside of Bhuj. Same great jacket shape, but without embroidery.
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Carole Douglas at the Embroiderers Guild NSW 

6/12/2014

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Rabari or Jat? Young or Old? Where did she live? 1 child or 3? How did her family live? What was her position in the family?.........
The Embroideriers Guild NSW is hosting a twilight event with Carole Douglas this Saturday afternoon 4 -6pm that will fascinate anyone who has been or would love to visit Kutch. 
This really is a 'must see' if hand embroidery and the silent narrative of womens' craft is one that fascinates and intrigues you, as it does me!
Carole's relationship with Kutch, or Kachchh as the locals call it, goes back decades. A skilled fabric printer in her own right, Carole has spent many years with women from the different tribal communities here....She's privliged to have seen girls born, and grow in to talented artisans under the watchfull eye of their mother, grandmothers and aunts to become a bride with an impressive catalogue of her own handcrafts to begin her married life with. Carole has a deep understanding of Kutchi culture and tradition that's remarkable and rare for someone from outside these communities. Her regular visits and sensitivity to  tradition have earned her enormous respect amongst the women of Kutch and their families.
Kutch embroideries are packed with symbolisim and stunning imagery....Carole can tell of an individuals life and circumstance, just by 'reading' their embroideries. It is totally fascinating and Oh how I'd love to be at her talk on Saturday!
'In her own voice - the narrative of stitch' is accompanied by an exhibition of valuable textiles from Carole's own private collection, which will be all the more appreciated with insight gleaned from Caroles talk.
A 'must see'
Phone 02 9743 2501 for more details





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    I am Lisa Hall, an Australian fashion designer living in Kutch, India.
    My label, Madame Hall makes makes gypsy inspired clothing for women who  want 'something different'

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