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How to Wear a Rabari Jacket

6/19/2014

4 Comments

 
PictureThis Rabari Jacket has been altered to fit, and is almost ready to be dyed.
If you've been to Kutch you can't have missed seeing the local Rabari men getting about in their distinctive white embroidered jackets. Their tribal jackets have instant appeal to forigeners due to the high waisted style that's currently often copied and oh so fashionable. 
The recent Bollywood movie, Ram Leela has also popularised the style. The romantic story featured spectacular Rabari dance sequences  that were filmed close to Bhuj, capturing the sureal natural beauty of the huge salt desert, The Great Rann of Kutch.
As Bhuj's local 'foriegner' shopping daily for Kutch's unique Indian handicrafts, I contstantly see young ladies, visitors here trying these jackets on in the vintage clothing shops, only to instantly take them off again! Not only are these jackets frequently very small, but the armhole , shoulder  and narrow sleeves are intolerably uncomfortable! Because they are covered in hand embroidery, the complexity of altering them to fit is rarely considered. And mostly they are stained too....We're talking vintage tribal jackets here, from white cotton, in dusty Kutch, so of course, they are often not very clean! 
I love a challenge! And after working at The Emergency Button in Sydney some years ago, I am good at devising alterations that don't compromise a great design.
I spent months, with Rabari Jackets, (or 'Kediya' as is the correct term) on my mind....thinking about how to solve their 'fit problem'  Some folks put a big gussett under the arm, but it's not the soloution as the shoulder still doesn't fit, and all you get is a 'bumpfy' underarm....it's not a good look!
So now...I have developed a formula....It involves several alterations in fact, but completely fixes all the wearability issues of these stunning hand embroidered jackets, meaning western fashionists's like you and me can now wear them easily!
I love Rabari Kediya because each is so different! Different embroidery depending on the community the man that it was originaly made for came from; some have a simple design of embroidered squares, others are very complex with mirror work and gold embelishments....I sometimes even find them with the 'owners' name embroidered on them too, which I love!
They look great worn layered over jeans, cut off shorts, a dress or with a slim skirt.....after altering, I usually dye them to give a quality, unified finish.
Check out my 'shop' for my improved Rabari Jackets, or request one to suit in your choice of size and colour. You'll get an amazing jacket with a story to tell! A Jacket thats completely unique, a 'one off' from a romantic culture of nomads, the exotic, mysterious wandering Rabari of Kutch.







Picture
A Rabari man I photographed just outside of Bhuj. Same great jacket shape, but without embroidery.
4 Comments
Gabrielle Travers
5/5/2016 11:11:28 pm

Dear Lisa,
I would love a Kediya style jacket. I have been to India 6 times and never found one. Admittedly I have only been to Kutch once but I would love it if you could find me one and alter it to fit.
I am in no hurry but it is one of those pieces I have always wanted.

I would also love to meet you one day. I did an embroidery course with Kala Raksha a few years ago and visited Judy Frater and the school in Bhuj when I came over. I have such fond memories.
I am totally in love with India and will be back one day with my half indian twins once they are old enough. Bu until then I will just have to follow your blog!
Regards,
Gabrielle

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essayservices link
12/17/2017 01:40:44 pm

Rebar jacket has been purchased by the man for the benefits in all cold environmental conditions. All the options of the jackets have been ensured for the struggling and hardworking individuals. The value of the jacket is high than most winter wears.

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Sujal Patel
8/15/2018 07:05:08 pm

Hello, this is Sujal Patel from USA. I really like the kediya on this website. Can I buy those kediya? DO you sell them?

Reply
olliecharles334 link
12/15/2022 11:44:38 pm

Nice article! Thanks for sharing informative post Keep posting

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    I am Lisa Hall, an Australian fashion designer living in Kutch, India.
    My label, Madame Hall makes makes gypsy inspired clothing for women who  want 'something different'

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